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In Chikankari, the variety of work and fabric is diverse. It can range from a simple cotton kurta for summers to silk kurta for winters. The different forms of embroidery include :

Taipchi: A long running or darning to form the outline of the chosen motif

Bakhia: or shadow work has two kinds: ulti and sidhi.

Phanda: Millet-shaped stitches used to make flowers and patterns like grape vines

Murri: rice-shaped minute stitches

Jali: Normally worked by tearing apart the threads of the cloth and preparing minute buttonhole stitches

Keel kangan: is used to enhance floral motifs and butties

Hool: is a fine detached eyelet stitch. Worked with six threads it forms the heart of a flower

Zanzeera: A small extremely fine chain stitch, it is used to finally outline the leaf/petal shapes after one or more outlines have been worked

Rahet: A stem stitch, it is rarely used in its simple form but is common in the double form of dohra bakhiya

Banarsi: A twisted stitch worked with six threads on the right side of the fabric

Khatau: similar to Bakhia, but finer, it is a form of applique. The design is prepared on calico, placed over the surface of the final fabric and then paisley and floral patterns are stitched on to it

Turpai and Darzdari are also significant in chikan work.


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